It's been a random, fun, and crazy week as I have enjoyed the company of my friend Alison being here! We have been doing everything from dog sledding to grilling burgers in below zero weather (more on those later), and now we are headed to safe and quiet city of Oslo. And it's about time. One would think that Tromsø, Norway at 70 degrees north in the idyllic mountain setting, full of quiet, kind, introverted Norwegians who pay too much taxes to support too many police officers would be a safe, quiet, and boring village. But oh no. I had that illusion shattered Saturday when Alison arrived.
I got to the airport early in my black felted wool coat with mittens made by Alison, a scarf and hat, and my bookbag ready to do a little reading to prepare for my exam. I read for a while and when Alison came through the gate, I did the natural thing and went up to greet her and welcome her to the peaceful place where I study peace and conflict transformation. We talked for about 2 minutes and then looked back at my chair and everything was gone. Someone had stolen my coat and my backpack containing 2 compendiums, ironically for my PEACE and conflict transformation class! I ran outside to look and only saw innocent looking Scandinavians and a group of even more innocent looking Japanese tourists. Maybe I was too naive about one of the two groups! I immediately went to one of the four, yes four, security guards who were in the waiting area supposedly protecting us from the dangers of the Tromsø airport (that would be the airport with about 8 gates and maybe 20 flights a day). I told the security guard what happened and he looked around in the now empty waiting room and consulted with some of the other security guards. Finally I suggested that maybe they look at the video. After about 10 minutes of waiting, he came back and said that the pillar in the waiting room had blocked any view of someone stealing my bag. Yes, great security system. Well, after realizing that it was a lost cause we came home and soon headed to the first exotic stop for Alison in her trip to Norway: the police station!
We headed in and told them about the situation, or tried in Norwegian. They said that they wanted to call the airport and have them check again. I just said ok and waited. Alison and I were getting ready to go out for the evening and had mixed a gin and tonic to go. Well, after 20 minutes of waiting we decided we were justified in openly drinking in the police station. Finally, they decided that I was telling the truth and that the bag and coat were actually stolen. I started filling out the paper work which was all in Norwegian. Quite a task. At the end of the form I had to write what I wanted to happen if they caught the person who stole it. I told the policewoman I was talking to that I just wanted the stuff and wouldn't press charges. We didn't quite understand each other and she insisted that I check one of the 10 boxes listed. I finally choose a box and x'ed it. I'm not exactly sure what it said or meant, but I have a strange hunch that it might have been the "extradite the criminal to South Dakota for immediate punishment" box.
So now, after rebuying the compendium, I can continue to write my exam and learn more about peace education and the economic costs of civil war. I wish I would have received Silje's advice that there are theives in the Arctic a little earlier! I guess I should rest easy though knowing that I am now doing what my program has been preparing me for: educating the vagrants! Somewhere out there in the dark alleys of Tromsø, someone is warm and is learning how to create peace and learn from the experience of feminist activists in Russia. My hat is off to them...if I still had it!
It's exam time. The time when everything becomes suddenly hilarious. Case in point:
In some countries people lock up their bikes, their house, and maybe even their car, but in Norway, they lock up their push sleds. Welcome to the Arctic. Don't touch my sled.
Check out the new photos by clicking on the link to the right that is creatively titled Photos from Norway.
and what a party it was! I brought in my 24th year of existence with an amazing party last night. A Monday night none-the-less! I was so happy to be with so many friends from all over the world.
The party started at Rachel's apartment which was newly decorated. The candles were lit and everyone had a great time snacking on chips, pretzels, and the butterfingers my family sent in the mail. It was so cozy and fun! Everyone from my house and a bunch of people from my course also came to the pre-party. We all enjoyed lively conversation and drinks as well as some great presents! It was so meaningful to get presents from all of my great friends. I know they are like me, living like students, always trying to save money, so to get gift from all of them was a great surprise. In typical Norwegian fashion, I received wine. 4 bottles worth! In addition to the wine, I received an all purpose jack knife, a set of candles, a nerf blow gun and comic books (maybe I'm not that old), an American cookbook from my housemate Stian who now expects results, a huge bottle of Coke, a backscratcher, the book "Dude, where's my country", and an original painting drawn by Rachel. Such creative and fun friends! 
After almost two hours of "pre-party" we got the group moving and headed to my favorite bar: Blå Rock! Blå rock (blue rock) is a rock bar and on Mondays they have cheap beer and a DJ playing music like the Shins, the Beatles, the Clash, Madrugada (Norwegian rock guy), and much more. The walls there are covered with posters from different bands and the clientel is always slightly alternative and very laid-back. There is even a small dancing floor, although I think that it only is used when I come! 
We had about 15 people come from the pre-party to the bar and I was so excited, and slightly surprised, to find so many more friends at Blå Rock! We ended up filling up the entire top floor with about 40 people. It was such a diverse, interesting groups of people, and it made me so happy to see all these different friends from different contexts all hanging out together and having a good time. From Russia to Peru and Finland to Ghana, the party definitely is the most international I have ever experienced! It's hard to pick a highlight from the great evening, but when Daniel from Italy requested the Shins on behalf of Rachel, I got excited and sang along to the whole song. That was great. 
It was a lively evening and I managed to stay until the bar starting closing at 2.30 am, talking to everyone and even getting some dancing in. Oddly enough, my Norwegian teacher named Odd and three other Norwegian friends were the last ones standing. Norway again shows its party strength.
I walked home in the crisp, Tromsø "spring" air very satisfied. I had an amazing birthday! To make things even better, I'm continuing to get birthday wishes in the mail so I can re-live it every day! It's great to realize how many great people I have met thus far here in Tromsø. I'm very thankful and content to be 24 in Tromsø.
Not the next title of the Harry Potter series, but instead my afternoon activity on my birthday! After a great lunch at the Swedish equivalent of Subway with Rachel and after turning in an application for money to research in Nicaragua this summer, I finally made it home to my science project: brewing root beer!
I seriously felt like I was performing witchcraft, pouring a dark, smelling substance into a huge cauldron of water and suger. Stirring with a huge spoon, while sprinkling in a small amount of mystery powder that some people call yeast. After all this mixing, I poured everything into bottles and now have to wait for 24 hours and hope that nothing explodes. The yeast will eat some sugar, make CO2, and then I can get a degree in chemistry. Should be fun. First though I should get a degree in math! I spent about 30 minutes converting a recipie for a 5 gallon mixture in American measurement to a 3 Litre recipe in metric. Just a hint for the next person who tries it: multiply everything by .16. Obviously.
So, excitement here in Tromsø. It has been great receiving a ton of mail and e-mails today from all my friends and family so thank you for thinking of me! I will think of you and American as I attempt to make the impossible in Norway: a root beer float! Tonight we're having a small party and going to a rock bar with cheap beer so it should be a good end to a great birthday.
Off to Hogwarts now!
I went to church this morning for the first time in a while, and was happy to discover that it was a children's service where they tried to incorporate the children in everything: giving communion, a pretend baptism, singing, and reading. It was great! The highlight was definitely when the little Sunday School kids sang a song. And when I say sang a song, I mean they were backups for the rain stick. Yes. The rainstick. Not exactly sure what it had to do with the song they were singing it, but the boy who was "playing" the rainstick was flipping that thing so quickly and loudly you would have thought that spring had suddenly come to Tromsø and it was actually raining out. Fun stuff. I also met a professor of religion after the service who was very interesting to talk to. A fun beginning to a Sunday.
Guds fred.
I have recently returned from another beautiful weekend in Bergen. It is truly amazing. Everyone tells me how rainy it is in Bergen, kind of like Seattle I guess, but everytime I go it's sunny and perfect. This past weekend was the same for many reasons...
But first, maybe I should explain why I have gone to Bergen twice and will be going again in April. I am enrolled in a class called 'Election Observation.' Basically, I'm learning everything there is to know about democracy, the electoral process, and how to go to another country (or Florida) to watch elections and determine if they are 'free and fair.' It has been a great class. There are people there of all ages and from all over Norway. Many work for the government, the army, political parties, and some are just curious students like me. I think we all share a love of travel and would all be pumped to be able to get a job working as an election monitor abroad. In fact, we are all excited because in October there is a possibility that we might be able to travel as a class to Estonia to monitor the elections there.
Probably the highlight of the class however is the professor, Frank Aarebrot. 
Andre and I call it the Frank Show and that's basically what it is. This guy is supposedly the Norwegian elections guru and is on TV during every election explaining what is happening and why. In addition to his book smarts, he has been all over the world as an elections monitor and it seems that our lectures are just a series of fascinating stories of his travels around the world monitoring elections. These travels have taken their toll on Frank though. Apparently there was some accident in Romania when he was there working as an observer and to make a long story short his foot was cut off. I can't confirm because he hasn't taken off his shoes, but he does walk with a little limb. It kind of adds to his mystic though as does his deveshveled, slightly ogre like appearance. He is an amazing teacher though and I love soaking up all he has to offer.
So yeah, I take this course by going to Bergen three times during the spring and having lectures Friday through Sunday from 10am until 4pm. Pretty intense. You would think after all this work we would be ready to relax, but no. With all these interesting people there is plenty of socializing to do, so every night a large portion of the class goes out for dinner and drinks. Bergen is definitely a great city to go out in as well, and every night we visit a different place. It always seems to be very hip and fun...or maybe it's just because I've been in Tromsø for so long.
The other definite highlight from this weekend and every time I have been in Bergen is the Mundal's house. Andre studies Peace with me and is originally from Bergen so I am lucky enough to stay at his home in Bergen when we take the course, and let me say, his mom spoils me almost as much as my mom does! Dinner, coffee, cakes, breakfast, conversation, and this weekend, a pair of gloves! I couldn't believe it. After waiting on me hand and foot all weekend she gave me a very warm pair of gloves from the store where she works. What a blessing. And on top of the great hospitality, the Mundals live an a beautiful part of Bergen, halfway up the Fløi mountain where the gondola takes people. It has a great view over the city (the first photo is from their window!) and the old house fits every stereotype I have of Norwegian houses: old, wood, simply beautiful.
So, needless to say I had a great weekend in Bergen. Salsa dancing, pizza with the Mundals, meeting Andre's two brothers, and walking home to Andre's house under clear, warm skies were all welcomed diversions from my normal Tromsø life.
After our time in Bergen, Andre and I took the train over the mountains of Norway to Oslo. We had a great time chatting on the train and seeing the grand scenary and powerful landscapes of Norway. 
And, I had to laugh when we had a 20 minute delay in the small mountain village of Nesbyen because we had to wait for a train that was delayed after hitting a moose. Only in Norway. Fortunately, the waffles that Andre's mom had packed for us kept us full and happy.
Now back to Tromsø and reading. The highlight today was working out and seeing a guy doing pull ups with a 20 pound weight on a chain tied around his waste. Hard core up here in Northern Norway.
I take that back about the rolled ankle being worth it. I can hardly walk tonight! I guess it's time to visit Apotek, the friendly Norwegian pharmacy. Until then, R.I.C.E.
I just got back from the Game of the Century, or at least the game of the week. I headed to basketball this afternoon ready to take some frustration on the court and when I got there I became really competative. After a half hour of drills, we gathered in a circle and some guy said he was the new coach and that there was a game an official game on Wednesday. He asked who was playing and 6 guys raised their hands. I asked if anyone could play and they informed me that you have to pay a fee to play. I paused waiting for someone to tell me how much, or who to pay, or at least sorry it's too late. Instead the coach just said we're going to practice as a team for the game on Wednesday so everyone else go to that side. There were two girls (one without shoes) and four guys on the scrubs team with me against the "official" team of six guys and one girl. So, the Disney-like plot was set up. Our team talked a little bit and set up in a zone defense and we stuffed them time and time again. We played so hard! We would stop them and immediately have someone running down the court for the fast court lay-up. On offense, I took it inside multiple times like I was Josh Paula in 7th grade. It felt so great to play as hard as we could. And of course, just like the movie script, we beat them. Nay, destroyed them. It felt so great, despite a rolled ankle and strained hamstring. It was worth it. Not sure if the game made me more or less frustrated, but it felt good to play well and stuff the "good" team. I guess March Madness has already begun in Norway.
The sun came out again today lighting up the snow and the day. I felt the need to enjoy the day and so I walked to town and met Stian and friends at a bar called Jernbanestasjon (The Train Station). A good way to enjoy the day I think! The Train Station is a little bit of Tromsø humor because Tromsø, despite all its complaining and wishful thinking, doesn't have a train station. So instead, all the over 50, rough, loud, Northern Norwegians who want to get drunk on a Saturday afternoon come to the bar called the train station. It's quite a place. Everything is made to look like a train, so we sat in the Murmansk, Russia car where the map of Muransk and the fictional train schedule hang on the wall. We sat in chairs that look like chairs on a train and we have a table and window just like being on a train car. The service is below average, the people are rude, the beer is overpriced, and it is a great place to shoot the shit on a Saturday afternoon. Maybe this is in fact the reason Tromsø does not yet have a train station! After some good conversation and people watching, I returned to the real Norwegian world of silence and beauty. I'm sure I'll make it back to the train station though next time I need a trip to Murmansk or a Killkinney beer.
Tonight was wednesday night, and wednesday night now has a new name: Poker Night! This would be a change from the previous name which was basketball night. I guess it's good that today in Norwegian class I learned how to say å legge på meg (to gain weight).
Last week I went for the first time to one of Stian's friend's house to play Texas Hold'em with 5 Norwegian guys. They are all from the same home town in Norway and are very fun! They bought a poker table just for the event and we all drink light beer and eat chips while pretending we're poker stars. They especially love busting out the english catch phrases when they go "All-In" and when they take someone out. Well tonight, the "Damn Yankee" as I am called got revenge.
See, last week I was the chip leader for a long time, but they eventually caught on to my wild play and knocked me out. Well, this week I used their ideas about my strategy against them and single-handedly knocked three people out when they thought I didn't have good cards. It came down to the final hand when the last Norwegian standing didn't think that I had the flush and went all-in. I did. So, I won! It was such a big day for me. Everyone puts 50 kroner into the pot (about 8 dollars) and the second place finisher gets their money back and the winner gets everything else. So, I am now the proud owner of 200 kroner. This should cover lunch for next week at the university. Wow, the student's life, so rough. I have to gamble to survive.
It is great fun though to play with them. I'm learning "useful Norwegian" according to the guys and it's nice to just have some male bonding. I miss the cluster days so it's kind of a replacement for the man love I guess. Wish me luck next Wednesday. I'll try to bring home the bacon again for the peace house!
All last week we had constant, steady snowfall that quietly submerged us in about a foot and a half of snow. On Sunday, (which is when all the Norwegians take "religious" ski trips) the sun began to peak throw in random blue patches in the sky. I felt a rustling inside. Some kind of Norwegian moral obligation to go outside and enjoy the weather. And so I did. I layered up and grabbed my skies and headed to my old stomping grounds at Prestvannet, which is a lake in the middle of the island. I decided that I was going to, for the first time, go skiing alone. And it was great! It was an absolutely beautiful setting. The naked trees were suddenly covered with heavy, wet snow and they hung over the trails like a picture that would be on a poster above Robert Frost's "The Road Less Travelled" in an English classroom somewhere. I skiied around and across the lake and I actually learned (kind of) how to ski. Well, the skiing is great. The stopping and turning leaves a bit to be desired. It was a great trip though and there was light snowfall and sun at the same time which was so fun. I only fell once, but it was next to the cemetary so I blame that on my Norwegian ancestoral ghosts.
Today, again the sun came out and this time I had even more reason to go because Berit, one of two Germans now living in my house, also wanted to go. It was perfect because we are about the same level in skiing ability so I wasn't too intimidated. We had a great tour going for an hour and a half from Prestvannet south, almost to the Southern tip of the island. We only stopped when a Norwegian guy informed us that there were no more trails the way we were going. It was another beautiful day and this time I had my camera! (see pictures to the right.) I got to see kids playing with reflective vests (always entertaining to me) and the ocean as we skiied on the highest area of the island. I only fell once, while going downhill, but I have to blame this one on myself. It was great fun and I think my moral obligation is fulfilled. I do hope to go again soon though and enjoy this winter wonderland!
