I just said goodbye to my dad and brother after a fantastic weekend with them. They arrived Thursday night and we have covered almost everything in Tromsø, save the cable car because the weather was a constant mix of rain and snow. We had a great time and it was such a pleasure to show off my home and show them my life. (You can also be shown a little bit with pictures! Click on the link on the right.)
Thursday night they came to a choir rehearsal I had literally off the plane followed by the first of many visits to a bar/cafe.
Friday I showed off the University and my peace people as well as taking them to a couple more cafes. We ate waffles, chatted with international students, went to the Polar Museum which taught us how to kill baby seals, and showed off the Peace House! We ate whale that night and did our best not to break our necks as we climbed the hill to their hotel.
Saturday we hit up the Tromsø Museum and visited the Ice Cathedral, a first for me. It was great. The Ice Cathedral is a modern looking church overlooking the fjord that was built to look kind of like an iceberg. We walked in and were greeted by a choir and organ rehearsing. The huge organ shook the whole building and it was great to see the church in action! We made it back to the island and had a Peace Pizza Party! It was so much fun! We had 16 people, almost our entire class, gathered around tables in the local pizza place called Yonus. My dad and brother got to meet everyone and begin to see the friends, and characters, in my life. 5 large pizzas later, we were all filled with food and laughter. I learned what my last name meant in German, I learned why Iran should have nuclear power, and I got to hear my dad explain what "Pardon my French" means. A very educational and fun evening. AFter the meal, the majority of the class mobilized to Driv, the local student pub. There we continued having great conversations and some how I managed to beat the semi-professional pool player, Tsevtan from Bulgaria, twice in pool. We also played a game called passport, which is a world geography trivia game. It was a blast to play a game with questions in Norwegian translated by Bulgarians, Chadians, Ghanians, and Americans into English and then to see what people know. We represented the continents pretty well, but our knowledge of Oceania was a bit lacking. We'll work on that.
Finally, today was probably the highlight for me. After a lackluster Norwegian church service, we were picked up by my two Rotary contacts, Petter Drecker and Sissel Diffelson. They gave us a very extensive tour of the area. Both Tromsø island where I live and the island next to us called Kvals Island. We saw the ocean, the fjords, a near blizzard, old churches, new churches, and finally we arrived at Petter's house. There we were treated to some great Norwegian hospitality. His wife prepared a fresh apple pie along side of a chocolate cake and a cheese cake. Lots of cake and coffee were consumed while we communicated in a mix of German, Norwegian, and English. It was great fun and so great to experience a "real life" in Tromsø. They had a beautiful house full of wood and glass overlooking the fjord. As the afternoon came to a close, Petter busted out the cognac as a way for my dad and I to stay warm as we left his house. Needless to say, pictures were taken.
From Petter's house we headed to a hilarious, over stimulating event: the Tromsø Storm Basketball Game! This was like going to a division three basketball game with NBA type effects. They had fireworks and lights flashing everywhere as the players came on the court. Before each quarter "Let's Get Ready to Rumble" came blasting over the speakers, and after point there was some random American rap song that came on. The Norwegians next to us shouted defense the whole game while waving a noise crank and playing a bongo drum. The funniest part however were the "Arctic Girls." That would be the 16 year old girls who came out during every time out and did some kind of hip hop/cheerleader type dance. I laughed out loud at the total Americanization of the whole place and the way they tried just a little bit too hard. There were definitely Norwegian touches however like selling waffles at the concession stands and having a game after halftime in which they have a number appear on the scoreboard and the first person to dial the number on the cell phone gets...another cell phone! Oh fun! It was a great event and even though Tromsø lost, I think I am quickly becoming a Tromsø Storm fan, or at least anthropological admirer!
After a gracious ride from Tove and Curt, my dad, Paul, and I ate a great meal of reindeer at the Beef House. It was a perfect meal to end a great weekend with. As we walked back to their hotel, the snow continued to fall and even though the clouds blocked any chance of seeing the Northern Lights, it was a beautiful Tromsø night!
We did a lot and had a ton of fun. I felt so proud of my city and am so excited that they can understand a little bit more of what I do here. Now it's back to the books. I think it will be a while before I have reindeer and cognac again!
There is a great guy in our peace studies program named Mostofa. He is from Bangladesh and today during an evaluation session, he was right on mark with short and very profound ideas for changing the program. Inspiring to hear. He always has a smile on his face and speaks with a heavy Indian English. He has provided countless laughs and today was no exception. He told us about his job at Burger King. He said that now he can make over 17 different kinds of hamburgers! He also admitted that he eats a "Hooper" everyday at work. (That would be Whopper for all of you American speakers out there.) He also laughed because he said every day at work he was making his burger to eat and would put bacon on it. Finally, one day his boss asked him, "Mostofa, aren't you Muslim? Why are you eating pig?" Mostofa replied with surprise, "You are telling me that bacon is pig?" He did clarify to us however that if someone doesn't know they are eating pig, it is ok, so I guess he's in the clear. So, that's Mostofa. He brightened my day today.
Silje told me today of a way to see to the sun! At about noon, if you go to the top floor of the library and look to the Southwest you can just barely see the sun above the mountains. The rest of us commoners here on the ground are too low to actually get a good look, but maybe tomorrow I'll go to the third floor for a peak!
In a big way. Well at least one of them. I headed out this morning running a bit late as usual and was greeted by a slushy mix of rain and snow. (This reminds me of freshman year at Luther when a friend across the hall from India saw sleet for the first time and told us, 'look at this guys, it's fucking snow-raining out!') Anyways, I made it to school and began a 12 hour school day. Back in a big way. After the first set of lectures, all the peace students from both the first and second years gathered for a traditional Northern Norway celebration welcoming back the sun. Or at least it was supposed to come back today. We of course couldn't see it because the sky was full of clouds and snow-rain, but we celebrated anyways in the tradition of Norwegian elementary students, by eating solbolle (which are basically Bismarks or jelly-filled doughnuts without a hole) and drinking hot chocolate. Maybe it's supposed to represent the darkness being taken over by the light. I don't know. But it was tasty and fun to socialize with everyone and realize that brighter days are ahead!
I have been busy preparing for the semester and trying to enjoy my last days before all the classes begin (by watching the fourth season of 24). My dad and brother are coming this Thursday to visit for 5 days so I'm excited to show off Tromsø and get some good meals out of the deal!
Now time for bed so I can again celebrate school, and maybe the sun, tomorrow.
Sunrise: None
Sunset: None
Temperature: -10 Celsius (10 Farenheit)
Wind: 11 m/s (25 mph)
Wind Chill: -24 Celsius (-11 Farenheit)
It's a FREEZING day today as the wind is whipping off of the North Sea into my face. Despite this obstacle, I again ambled to the film festival, this time at 9am! It was worthwhile, but depressing.
The morning started with the film "Shooting Dogs." This movie was about a Catholic mission school in Rwanda on the eve of the genocide. It follows the life of the priest at the school and a young volunteer teacher. They both develop strong relationships with their students and enjoy the protection of the United Nations Belgian troops who are stationed at their school. When the genocide begins, fleeing Tutsis seek shelter in the school. For over a week they organize themselves to live and survive within the walls of the school. Eventually, all the Europeans who had taken refuge at the school are evacuated by French troops, leaving only the school teacher, priest, and the Belgian troops. A few days later, the UN troops are given orders to abandon the school and the people there. The school teacher and priest must decide whether to stay and face certain death from the Hutu militia outside the walls or flee with the troops. The teacher leaves and the priest stays and is eventually killed by a Hutu who was a former friend. The worst part about the whole movie is that it is based on true events when 2500 Rwandans where abandoned by the UN and killed at a school in Rwanda.
This movie was very moving and frustrating. I especially loved the final scene where the school teacher is in a field outside a huge cathedral presumably in England with people playing cricket in the background. Just a frustrating reminder of the gap in living standards and how much of what we are fortunate enough to enjoy often comes at a price most of us wish to ignore. The film did a great job of not being too excessive, and since we saw the events through the priest and school teachers eyes, you almost feel ignorant much like they and the world were during the events. In the end when confronted by the killing it is all the more powerful. I also thought this film was good because it was less hopeful and thus probably more realistic than "Hotel Rwanda." Finally, it was notable that survivors from the genocide were used in all aspects of the film: directing, costumes, acting, writing and editing. The genuine feel of it must have a lot to do with that.
Needless to say, I enjoyed the movie. It was a bit slow at first owing to the ignorance on the part of the priest and school teacher, but all in all, a powerful and necessary movie. Not exactly what you want to go back and see again though. It will stick with me for a while and I have been thinking about it all day, so I think those are good signs that this movie is a 6.
Only 30 minutes after "Shooting Dogs" I went to another film, which was probably a mistake. I should have had more time to digest. But the following movie was already, kind of funny and touching. It was called "The Shaktu World Record" and was about a small village in Macedonia where everyone wanted to be the champion of something. There were a ton of hilarious interviews with people who claimed to be the champion vampire catcher, the champion musician, the champion goose fighter, the champion dresser, and the champion lover. Of course, everyone thinks they are the champion and lots of arguing and small town gossip occur throughout the movie. This movie was fun, but was a little fluffy and at times a bit repetative. The characters however are great and I especially loved when they showed the music videos and one musician said he was the champion because his music videos were the best because they had the most effects. It reminded me of being in Tanzania and seeing ridiculous music videos and wedding videos when every generic effect was used without hesitation. Overall, I'd give this film a 3 because it definitely is enjoyable, but also forgettable. 
Finally, yesterday just before midnight I headed to a Spanish movie called "Tapas." Very fun, light-hearted, and entertaining because I got to watch it with two friends from Spain and it took place in Barcelona where I visited this fall. They were laughing a lot more than me which makes me wonder...By far my favorite part of the movie was when a Bruce Lee lover in the movie starts comparing Bruce Lee with Chuck Norris. I just laughed thinking about all the facts about Chuck Norris such as "Chuck Norris' tears cure cancer, too bad he never cries." Well, besides the humor the movie somehow was able to lightly talk about assisted-suicide, drug use, marital relations, and love. It was a fun movie, but I think I would have rated it higher right after I saw it. Now, the shimmer wore off and I realized it was good, but not that good. A four for Tapas. 
A break tomorrow and then a South African movie on Sunday!
The movie festivities have begun in Tromsø! Everyone is walking around with aqua green wrist bands, a book describing all the movies, and a program schedule so they can fit in as many movies as possiblle. I started my movie experience yesterday, braving fierce winds to walk to the theatre to see two movies. In Norway, everything is rated based on dice with a six on a dice being the best and a one on the dice being the worst. So, in that tradition I am pleased to provide you reviews from the first day of the Tromsø International Film Festival.
The first film I saw was called: "Paradise Now." This was an intense movie about two friends who are recruited as suicide bombers in Palestine. It follows their path from Palestine to Israel: their preparation, their families, a brief look at how they got where they are, and the extreme differences from Palestine and Israel. When their first attempt at crossing into Israel fails, they are left with the option to try again or abandon their plans for matyrdom. What will happen?!
This film was powerful, although it was a surprise when it was subtitled in Norwegian! (One of only three movies at the festival that aren't subtitled in English.) Good practice for me. Fortunately, my friend Mostafa from Chad was able to understand the Arabic that they spoke, so we were both alright. 
I would give this movie a four because it had a very powerful message, but I was expecting more. They did a great job of not picking sides in the conflict, but rather just showing the differences and the justification some people use to justify violence. A little more character development would have been nice, but overall I recommend it!
The second film I saw yesterday was called "Kukumi." This was a slow-moving movie about a mental hospital in Kosovo at the end of the war in 1999. When the Serbian troops withdraw, the workers at the hospital flee and the patients are free to leave the hospital. A group of three patients leave together and give the audience a view of rural life in Kosovo. Ultimately, we learn that life outside the hospital is crazier than life inside and they ultimately decide to go back to the hospital.
This was a boring movie. A good message that could have been given in 20 minutes instead of 2 hours. Although it was nice to see the landscape of Kosovo, the 5-10 minute periods of silence where a bit much. 
I would give this movie a generous 2 rating. Only because of scenes such as a crazy guy flashing a political rally only to fall off a cliff saved this film from the one rating. Overall, I wouldn't recommend this movie.
Tonight I am headed to a midnight showing of a Spanish comedy called "Tapas." Then, I "have" to get up for a 9am showing of a movie called "Shooting Dogs" about Rwanda. Another feel good movie I bet. Should be fun. Until then, the film critic has spoken.
I had choir tonight and it was fun to get a personal call from the director earlier in the day reminding me. However, not many other people got the call. Because of the film festival and because the choir had a concert a few weeks ago, there were only 4 of us at the rehearsal: three sopranos and me. It was especially hilarious because today we started some new music and what was the first song we looked at: Money, Money, Money by ABBA! WHAT?! I couldn't believe that these Norwegians were singing the old Swedish band's hits in English. Oh globalization. Well, it was pretty funny because all three sopranos of course sang the melody line like they were in the rock group while I was stuck singing weird thirds and fifths all by myself. I sounded so out of place. The director must have felt it too because he asked me to eventually play the piano while the sopranos rocked out. Fun times. So, just picture me in my ABBA quartet singing away. It's a rich man's world.
I made it back to Tromsø in one piece! I arrived yesterday at 4pm after leaving the US the day before at 11am. A long trip, but it feels good to be back and I was very surprised to get back to fairly warm weather, very little snow, and a little bit of light! We don't have the sun yet, but it definitely is lighter now.
I am excited because I already picked up the huge packet full of information fo rthe film festival this week. It starts on Tuesday and runs until Sunday. There are probably over 100 movies to see. I can't decide what to see first! I will definitely be posting my reviews here so you can see which movies you should seek out. It is great too because every year they highlight one country and this year it is South Africa so they have a handful of movies from South Africa to see. Very fun!
Tonight I have choir again and now I'm off to school to buy a few books, read a little bit, and get back in the groove!
I felt at home earlier this week when I was getting out of my (brother's) car and the postman started driving up the cul-du-sac. He pulled up next to the mailbox and then I heard spin of tires on ice. He was stuck! I felt a deep calling to help out a fellow South Dakotan, so I did the small town thing and pushed the mail truck off the ice and back on the road. That's right, the whole truck! I felt strong (even though mail trucks are about a third of the size of real trucks) and felt like I could relax the rest of the day, guilt free.
Besides saving locals in distress, I am also getting ready to go back to Tromsø. I leave Saturday at 1pm from Sioux Falls and will arrive in Tromsø about 24 hours later. It will be a long trip, but I'm excited to get back to the books, even if I have to put the postman back at risk. Hopefully someone else will be ready to push them out.
I wrote a Christmas card a few weeks back but haven't sent out copies yet, so if you're interested, read on and enjoy my first ever "Christmas" card (albeit a little late...):
Home is tricky word. As I sit here in my room in my South Dakota home enjoying the brightness of the 44th parallel, I feel at home. Relaxed, comfortable, and content. However, I also know that I left Tromsø, Norway (70 degrees north) which has also begun to feel like home: filled with friends, work, and adventure. I think this is the limbo of not quite being in the real world. Or maybe this is the real world. I’m not sure yet where I fall, but I think I’m am leaning towards the real world and making a new home, and this decision comes with the obvious conclusion: I now need my own “Christmas card!” It is time to start the great American tradition of keeping in touch with friends and family through an annual Christmas card.
Although Christmas cards usually cover the whole year’s events, my independent life starts in August when I left the United States for Tromsø, Norway to begin a master’s program in Peace and Conflict Transformation. Norway has been a great challenge and a great reward. I study with 17 other students from all over the world. There are 7 students from Norway and students from Finland, Bangladesh, Tchad, Cameroon, Germany, Ghana, and Poland. This international program is taught in English, but is definitely taught in the European-style with little in-class discussion, an emphasis on teaching yourself, and 100% of the grade determined on a final exam. This has been a frustrating change for me, but fortunately I have been able to make great friends from the program and we often discuss and debate our material, which ranges from anthropology and sociology, to political science and economics. I am excited for next semester to start elective courses and hopefully qualify to be an elections observer through a long distance learning course in Bergen, Norway.
I was very fortunate in the beginning of the fall to move into a house with 4 other classmates, aptly named “The Peace House.” The five of us joined two other students already living in the house to create a cozy, fun collective. Five of my housemates are Norwegian and one is Finnish, so we have an interesting mix of Norwegian and English spoken throughout all three floors of our house. It is a great place to live and has helped me to make great friends with some of my classmates.
The fall has also been a great time for travel! I have had the opportunity to visit Spain, England, and Poland. The last trip to Poland was definitely a highlight because I went with five of my classmates and enjoyed a Polish spa, a trip to Krakow and Auschwitz, and lots of great food and drink. After all of these trips I have always been excited to return north of the Arctic Circle to Tromsø where I live right on the water, surrounded by mountains and picturesque Norwegian homes. Tromsø is known for having the northernmost brewery, the most bars per capita in Norway, and lots of crazy international students who have kept my weekends lively. Currently Tromsø is dark 24 hours a day, so the vitamin D in South Dakota has been a pleasant change.
I will be studying in Tromsø until May 2007. This summer I have the exciting prospect of doing fieldwork, which I will be the basis of my master’s thesis that I will write next year. I want to research whether certain types of foreign aid from the United States are more or less political and effective than others as well as how aid may cause brain drain in recipient nations. I have thought about traveling to Nicaragua to do fieldwork, but still need to focus my ideas before I can make a decision. If anyone has suggestions or connections, please let me know!
Lots of adventures await me in the next year and half, and I would love to invite everyone to join me in my journeys. I have set up a website that I update regularly with stories and pictures: scottinnorway.blogspot.com. I also would love visitors to Tromsø! You have a free place to stay in my house when you come.
I want to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a God Jul! Thanks for joining me in my first big step of adulthood!
Vennlig Hilsen,
Scott
Norwegian Mobile: (47)92 25 20 47 AIM: bigtwig16meyer
E-mail: scottdavidmeyer@gmail.com Skype Name: bigtwig16
